O parmesão italiano está entre os grandes ingredientes da gastronomia. Mas suas versões industrializadas deixam muitas vezes a desejar. Degustação às cegas indica qual os melhores (e piores) dos mercados
Renata Mesquita, O Estado de S.Paulo
Existem poucas unanimidades no universo da gastronomia e, entre elas, está a relevância do queijo parmesão. Ele anda sozinho, não é apenas um mero acompanhante, é matéria-prima – ingrediente de receitas centenárias. É responsável pela casquinha da lasanha (e de todos os gratinados), item indispensável em qualquer macarronada. Não existe pesto sem ele, não faz sentido servir sopa de cebola, ou qualquer outra na realidade, sem uma mão de parmesão ralado por cima – que derrete e afunda no caldo. Até na salada ele se faz presente. Vamos combinar, em qualquer prato, ele nunca é demais. PUBLICIDADE
Teste dos queijos tipo parmesão de supermercado Foto: Tiago Queiroz/Estadão
De casca dura, textura granulada, com cristais brancos e sabor complexo (alô, umami), é salgado, mas doce, herbal, amendoado e intenso. Assim deve ser um verdadeiro Parmigiano Reggiano, o original, produzido na região da Emilia-Romagna, com ingredientes preciosos, como o leite cru, em um processo particular, protegido pela denominação de origem (DOP), em uma área geográfica cuidadosamente definida. Assim como o Grana Padano, outra marca registrada italiana, produzido no Vale do Pó, região ao norte do país. Ambos devem repousar, ou maturar por, no mínimo, 12 meses com média de 24 meses (no caso do Parmegianno) e de mínimo de nove meses, média de 15 (no Grana) – tempo que traduz perda de umidade do queijo, concentração de sabor e também preços elevados.
Mas não só de Parmeggianos e Padanos vivem os homens. As prateleiras dos mercados estão cada vez mais recheadas de opções de queijos tipo parmesão (ou seja, sem o selo DOP), das mais variadas marcas, nacionalidades e, principalmente, preços.
Bom para o consumidor, que pode escolher e se deliciar com um bom parmesão sem pagar até três cifras por um pedaço do queijo italiano, mas nem sempre bom para seu macarrão de domingo. Comedores correm o risco de levar para casa um queijo em que nada se assemelha com o original, moles, sem sabor e com gosto e aroma artificiais.
Rale sem medo Foto: Tiago Queiroz/Estadão
“De dez anos para cá, a demanda por queijo parmesão aumentou muito no Brasil, o queijo duro e salgado caiu no gosto do brasileiro, e o mercado simplesmente não consegue acompanhar. As indústrias, então, encurtam o tempo de maturação do queijo – às vezes menos que três meses – para irem logo para as prateleiras dos mercados. O resultado são queijos moles, pouco complexos e quase sem qualquer semelhança com um queijo tipo parmesão”, explica Fernando Oliveira, especialista em queijos brasileiros e proprietário da loja A Queijaria.
Estudioso dos processos químicos e físicos na cozinha, o americano Harold McGee, em seu Comida e Cozinha, diz que “a maturação é a arte de levar os queijos àquele ponto em que o sabor e a textura alcançam a excelência”. E comprova, “em regra, os produtores industriais só amadurecem seus queijos em parte. Essa prática maximiza o lucro e a estabilidade dos queijos às custas da qualidade”.
Oliveira alerta também para outras práticas da indústria, como a adição de sal ou aromas artificiais na receita, como forma de mascarar aromas e sabores indesejáveis. E a vigilância não acompanha de perto o que chega no mercado, mesmo que fora dos padrões da legislação, como o grau de umidade mínimo para o queijo chegar às prateleiras.
Ranking. De olho nos riscos dessa escolha, o Paladar resolveu colocar os queijos tipo parmesão à prova. Organizamos uma degustação às cegas – e à distância – para avaliar aparência, textura, aroma e sabor dos produtos. As dez marcas que participaram do teste foram escolhidas em visitas a diferentes supermercados, entre opções nacionais e importadas e diferentes faixas de preço. O júri foi formado por quem entende do assunto: o chef romano Marco Renzetti, a chef italiana Nadia Pizzo, Fernando Oliveira, a mestre queijeira Rosana Rezende e a empresária Mônica Resende, da loja Mestre Queijeiro.
O resultado trouxe algumas surpresas, como você verá a seguir. Metade deles se saiu bem. Mas a outra parte nem mesmo deveriam levar o nome parmesão na embalagem. Pois, de acordo com os jurados, em nada se assemelham com a receita italiana.
Deixamos de lado as versões vendidas já raladas, que na maioria dos casos nem ao menos queijo são. “Queijo parmesão ralado é o resto da indústria, cascas, partes indesejadas, entre outros subprodutos”, alerta Fernando Oliveira. No Brasil, o queijo ralado ainda pode conter até quatro tipos de queijos de baixa umidade, ou seja, é quase impossível saber o que estamos consumindo. Assunto encerrado.
Os melhores e piores queijos parmesão do mercado
1ª colocação – La Serenissima
R$ 90/kg no Quitanda
A disputa do primeiro lugar foi acirrada, mas o queijo da marca argentina levou a melhor. Os jurados destacaram a proximidade com o parmesão italiano, de sabor intenso e cristais característicos bem presentes, tanto no toque quanto no paladar. “Na boca o sal é correto, a acidez faz salivar e ainda apresenta um dulçor agradável.”
2ª colocação – Gran Formaggio tipo Grana
R$ 150/kg no Pão de Açúcar
A embalagem destaca os 12 meses de maturação, que traduz na sua aparência e sabor. Tem textura quebradiça, que fica entre arenoso e grumoso – característica indispensável no estilo. Na boca, apresenta complexidade de sabores, “do frutado e cítrico”. Com baixa acidez e leve dulçor. Com mais alguns meses de maturação, teria conquistado o pódio.
3ª colocação – Faixa Azul
R$ 180/kg no Sonda
“Pode lembrar um parmesão”, destacou um dos jurados. Mesmo com uma coloração mais pálida, percebe-se uma maturação maior que a maioria dos outros queijos avaliados. Na boca, tem a acidez que faz salivar e prolonga o sabor. Sal equilibrado e aroma de queijo. Já a oleosidade – em excesso – tirou alguns pontos da marca.
4ª colocação – Gran Mestri Neri
R$ 150/kg no Quitanda
Nem lá, nem cá. Um parmesão correto, mas sem grandes atributos. Tem boa textura, é seco, como deve ser, mas faltam cristais. O sabor é agradável, mas falta a complexidade característica do tipo. Perdeu pontos no aroma lácteo – talvez artificial – em excesso.
5ª colocação – Scala (6 meses de maturação)
R$ 89,97/kg no Mambo
“Começa a lembrar o estilo”, disse um dos jurados. Tem sabor adocicado, com aroma frutado, leve acidez e picância, mas sem persistência e complexidade. Falta tempo de maturação para ganhar as características necessárias, principalmente na textura, ainda muito macia para um queijo tipo parmesão.
6ª colocação – Fazenda Bela Vista
R$ 79,90/kg no Sonda
Está mais para um queijo prato do que para um tipo parmesão. Textura muito macia, elástica, “é claramente um queijo muito jovem”, com pouquíssima maturação e, assim, sem similaridade com o estilo, nem na textura nem na boca.
7ª colocação – President
R$ 99/kg no St. Marche
É um queijo, mas longe de merecer o título de parmesão. “Pode dançar qualquer música, insosso em todos os sentidos, sem nenhuma das características esperadas”, apontou um dos jurados. Tem massa macia, falta acidez e sobra sal.
8ª colocação – Tirolez
R$ 89,90/kg no Natural da Terra
Longe do ideal – extremamente jovem – até mesmo para um queijo de outro estilo. É elástico, amanteigado, com perceptíveis aromas artificiais, sabor imperceptível e acidez desequilibrada.
9ª colocação – Quatá
R$ 87,90/kg no Mambo
Um leve sabor de defumado, como em queijos do tipo provolone, foi notado por mais de um jurado. Não apenas descaracteriza o estilo, como também deixa um gosto residual desagradável. Muito elástico e sem qualquer semelhança com um parmesão.
10ª colocação – Polenghi Sélection
R$ 99,99/kg no Madrid
“Nem deveria estar nesta seleção.” Descrito como um queijo defeituoso, é pálido, pouco aromático e, ao mesmo tempo que apresenta textura granulosa, é também elástico – truque da indústria, destacou um dos jurados. “Completamente fora do padrão.”
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